WSL Desk
Sustainable fashion designer Vino Supraja paid tribute to the centuries-old Bhavani Jamakkalam weaving tradition with her latest collection, WEAVE: A Bhavani Tribute, at London Fashion Week 2025. The showcase highlighted both the craft and the artisans who sustain it, bringing heritage to the forefront of contemporary fashion.
Landmark Moment in Fashion
In what the designer calls a landmark moment, master weaver Sakthivel Periyasamy joined Supraja on the runway to take the final bow, marking the first time a craftsperson of Bhavani weaving stood alongside a designer on an international stage. The moment was met with visible emotion from the audience, emphasising the importance of recognising artisans as central to fashion storytelling.
Heritage Reimagined in Modern Silhouettes
The collection reimagined the Jamakkalam’s bold stripes and vibrant colours into modern silhouettes. Each garment was meticulously crafted from multiple panels, culminating in a finale gown composed of over 400 pieces. Luxury handbags created from original Jamakkalam textiles extended the craft into contemporary accessories.
The runway experience was enhanced by a theatrical performance choreographed by Palani Murugan of the Purisai Therukoothu lineage, performed by Vaanmadhi Jagan. Traditional Thevarattam and Thapattam dance elements were woven into the performance, bringing the cultural heritage to life on stage.
Music That Bridges Tradition and Contemporary Expression
Music director Paul Jacob composed a score blending rare Tamil folk instruments with English rap by Indian rapper BlaaZe, inspired by poet Subramania Bharathiyar, alongside vocals from folk legends Chinna Ponnu and Antony Dasan. The soundtrack created a seamless fusion of tradition and contemporary expression.
Founded by architect-turned-designer Vino Supraja, the Dubai- and India-based sustainable luxury fashion house has showcased collections at New York, Brooklyn, Shanghai, and London Fashion Weeks. Known for ethical collaborations with weaving communities, the brand champions fashion that is both environmentally responsible and socially conscious. The brand collaborates with artisan and weaving communities across India, reimagining traditional textiles like Kanchipuram silks and Madurai cottons for a global audience.
Bhavani Jamakkalam: Preserving a Living Legacy
The Bhavani Jamakkalam, originating from Tamil Nadu, India, is renowned for its bold stripes and unique pit-loom technique. Once a household staple, the craft faces decline due to industrial alternatives. With over five decades of experience, Sakthivel Periyasamy embodies the living legacy of this heritage, and his presence on the global runway served as a historic acknowledgement of the artisans behind the craft.
